Sussex

<h2><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" class="alignnone wp-image-47396 size-full" src="https://sussex.muddystilettos.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/sites/11/2020/02/the-curlew1.jpg" alt="The Curlew, Bodiam" width="1000" height="667" srcset="https://dev.muddystilettos.co.uk/sussex/wp-content/uploads/sites/11/2020/02/the-curlew1.jpg 1000w, https://dev.muddystilettos.co.uk/sussex/wp-content/uploads/sites/11/2020/02/the-curlew1-300x200.jpg 300w, https://dev.muddystilettos.co.uk/sussex/wp-content/uploads/sites/11/2020/02/the-curlew1-768x512.jpg 768w, https://dev.muddystilettos.co.uk/sussex/wp-content/uploads/sites/11/2020/02/the-curlew1-720x480.jpg 720w" sizes="(max-width: 1000px) 100vw, 1000px" />THE LOWDOWN</h2>
<p>February saw the much-anticipated re-opening of this award-winning former coaching inn just outside Bodiam in East Sussex. It closed in 2019 after ten years &#8211; and one Michelin star &#8211; under the same ownership. Now, it&#8217;s under the exciting stewardship of the team behind <a href="https://kent.muddystilettos.co.uk/little-black-book/directory/the-small-holding/" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer">The Small Holding</a> just across the border in Kent, brothers Matt and Will Devlin.</p>
<p>Named The Good Food Guide&#8217;s Chef to Watch 2020, Will trained under Gordon Ramsay and is both down-to-earth and clearly a ferociously talented fanatical foodie. His passion for good food and its ability to bring people together is palpable. I rolled up with Muddy Kent editor Ali on a chilly evening, in need of some TLC and with high hopes that The Curlew would provide exactly that.</p>
<p>The low-lit rustic interior and roaring logburner surrounded by cosy-looking armchairs instantly warmed my cockles, as did the friendly staff and warm welcome from Will, who eagerly gave us the tour. Decked out with natural touches like burnished copper vases bursting with evergreen foliage reflecting an earthy brown and green palette with flashes of sparkle, The Curlew is every inch a little slice of calm, unpretentious, rural foodie heaven.</p>
<div id="attachment_47397" style="width: 1010px" class="wp-caption alignnone"><img aria-describedby="caption-attachment-47397" decoding="async" loading="lazy" class="wp-image-47397 size-full" src="https://sussex.muddystilettos.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/sites/11/2020/02/the-curlew2.jpg" alt="dining room at the curlew bodiam" width="1000" height="667" srcset="https://dev.muddystilettos.co.uk/sussex/wp-content/uploads/sites/11/2020/02/the-curlew2.jpg 1000w, https://dev.muddystilettos.co.uk/sussex/wp-content/uploads/sites/11/2020/02/the-curlew2-300x200.jpg 300w, https://dev.muddystilettos.co.uk/sussex/wp-content/uploads/sites/11/2020/02/the-curlew2-768x512.jpg 768w, https://dev.muddystilettos.co.uk/sussex/wp-content/uploads/sites/11/2020/02/the-curlew2-720x480.jpg 720w" sizes="(max-width: 1000px) 100vw, 1000px" /><p id="caption-attachment-47397" class="wp-caption-text">Food Story Media</p></div>
<h2>THE VIBE</h2>
<p>Inspired by the inclusive feel of his famed No Fixed Abode pop-ups, Will has set out to create a relaxed and casual approach with The Curlew. Think long wooden tables full of sharing dishes that everybody can pile into and enjoy. Food is served as and when it&#8217;s ready, tapas-style, rather than the traditional starter, main course and dessert and you&#8217;re encouraged to order as much as you like from the menu. If you enjoyed a dish &#8211; ask for more!</p>
<p><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" class="alignnone size-full wp-image-47398" src="https://sussex.muddystilettos.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/sites/11/2020/02/the-curlew3.jpg" alt="" width="1000" height="667" srcset="https://dev.muddystilettos.co.uk/sussex/wp-content/uploads/sites/11/2020/02/the-curlew3.jpg 1000w, https://dev.muddystilettos.co.uk/sussex/wp-content/uploads/sites/11/2020/02/the-curlew3-300x200.jpg 300w, https://dev.muddystilettos.co.uk/sussex/wp-content/uploads/sites/11/2020/02/the-curlew3-768x512.jpg 768w, https://dev.muddystilettos.co.uk/sussex/wp-content/uploads/sites/11/2020/02/the-curlew3-720x480.jpg 720w" sizes="(max-width: 1000px) 100vw, 1000px" /></p>
<p>This makes the whole experience flow in a natural, relaxed way and the conversation seemed to flow equally naturally as a result. Not that the lovely Ali would ever be difficult to talk to, but for those eagerly-anticipated date nights where you&#8217;re desperate to grab some time together but also frantically scanning for topics other than work and the kids, the steady stream of new and interesting dishes to try provide a really deliciously authentic talking point. The decor and styling creates a warm and intimate cocoon, free of wildly distracting flashy features. There&#8217;s relaxed because you&#8217;re not making an effort, and relaxed because everybody else has made a huge effort to make sure you&#8217;re relaxed &#8211; The Curlew does the latter perfectly.</p>
<p><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" class="alignnone size-full wp-image-47399" src="https://sussex.muddystilettos.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/sites/11/2020/02/the-curlew4.jpg" alt="" width="1000" height="769" srcset="https://dev.muddystilettos.co.uk/sussex/wp-content/uploads/sites/11/2020/02/the-curlew4.jpg 1000w, https://dev.muddystilettos.co.uk/sussex/wp-content/uploads/sites/11/2020/02/the-curlew4-300x231.jpg 300w, https://dev.muddystilettos.co.uk/sussex/wp-content/uploads/sites/11/2020/02/the-curlew4-768x591.jpg 768w, https://dev.muddystilettos.co.uk/sussex/wp-content/uploads/sites/11/2020/02/the-curlew4-650x500.jpg 650w" sizes="(max-width: 1000px) 100vw, 1000px" /></p>
<h2>SCOFF AND QUAFF</h2>
<p>Most of the food served at The Curlew comes from the farm at The Small Holding, and the rest is sourced seasonally and hyper-locally. The menu is simple and light on detail, options are organised into snacks like scones and butters (£4) and pork dumplings (£6), followed by a selection of meat, fish and veg-based sharing dishes. Further down are larger offerings like the rib of Sussex beef (£64), whole smoked chicken with farm salad (£34) and 24-hour lamb with green sauce (£38).</p>
<div id="attachment_47400" style="width: 1010px" class="wp-caption alignnone"><img aria-describedby="caption-attachment-47400" decoding="async" loading="lazy" class="wp-image-47400 size-full" src="https://sussex.muddystilettos.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/sites/11/2020/02/the-curlew5.jpg" alt="Turbot and Sussex rib of beef The Curlew Bodiam" width="1000" height="667" srcset="https://dev.muddystilettos.co.uk/sussex/wp-content/uploads/sites/11/2020/02/the-curlew5.jpg 1000w, https://dev.muddystilettos.co.uk/sussex/wp-content/uploads/sites/11/2020/02/the-curlew5-300x200.jpg 300w, https://dev.muddystilettos.co.uk/sussex/wp-content/uploads/sites/11/2020/02/the-curlew5-768x512.jpg 768w, https://dev.muddystilettos.co.uk/sussex/wp-content/uploads/sites/11/2020/02/the-curlew5-720x480.jpg 720w" sizes="(max-width: 1000px) 100vw, 1000px" /><p id="caption-attachment-47400" class="wp-caption-text">Food Story Media</p></div>
<p>Ali and I were advised not to try and conquer the menu, but to choose a few bits that took our fancy and take it from there. Each dish was explained to us as it was brought out and a range of influences feature, from the traditional airy and flavoursome cheese and bacon scones to the Asian-style pork dumplings with dipping sauce.</p>
<p>We chose some dishes because they sounded delicious, like the heavenly miso roasted cod with seaweed sauce (£11) and the salt baked carrots with dill seed mayo (£7). They were indeed delicious &#8211; small and perfectly-formed bites of flavour and texture. Others we were simply curious about. Chicken and waffles (£8) turned out to be an American-style combination of fried chicken in the lightest, most flavoursome batter served on a crispy, airy waffle with sour cream and fiery chilli. We ate this with a side dish of roast parsnips with fennel yoghurt (£6), not the most obvious combination but like everything about The Curlew, it just works.</p>
<div id="attachment_47401" style="width: 1010px" class="wp-caption alignnone"><img aria-describedby="caption-attachment-47401" decoding="async" loading="lazy" class="wp-image-47401 size-full" src="https://sussex.muddystilettos.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/sites/11/2020/02/the-curlew6.jpg" alt="Carrots and parsnips The Curlew Bodiam" width="1000" height="717" srcset="https://dev.muddystilettos.co.uk/sussex/wp-content/uploads/sites/11/2020/02/the-curlew6.jpg 1000w, https://dev.muddystilettos.co.uk/sussex/wp-content/uploads/sites/11/2020/02/the-curlew6-300x215.jpg 300w, https://dev.muddystilettos.co.uk/sussex/wp-content/uploads/sites/11/2020/02/the-curlew6-768x551.jpg 768w, https://dev.muddystilettos.co.uk/sussex/wp-content/uploads/sites/11/2020/02/the-curlew6-697x500.jpg 697w" sizes="(max-width: 1000px) 100vw, 1000px" /><p id="caption-attachment-47401" class="wp-caption-text">Food Story Media</p></div>
<p>Even so, dessert was the star of the show. We chose meadowsweet marshmallow s&#8217;mores which were served with much fanfare alongside a mini grill for us to toast over, and a feathery chocolate mousse that literally disappeared on the tongue. Will calls this &#8216;interactive eating&#8217;. Ali and I, giggling like children as we wiped sticky, cinnamon-seasoned marshmallow off our fingers, would probably just call it &#8216;joy&#8217;.</p>
<p><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" class="alignnone size-full wp-image-47402" src="https://sussex.muddystilettos.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/sites/11/2020/02/the-curlew7.jpg" alt="" width="1000" height="759" srcset="https://dev.muddystilettos.co.uk/sussex/wp-content/uploads/sites/11/2020/02/the-curlew7.jpg 1000w, https://dev.muddystilettos.co.uk/sussex/wp-content/uploads/sites/11/2020/02/the-curlew7-300x228.jpg 300w, https://dev.muddystilettos.co.uk/sussex/wp-content/uploads/sites/11/2020/02/the-curlew7-768x583.jpg 768w, https://dev.muddystilettos.co.uk/sussex/wp-content/uploads/sites/11/2020/02/the-curlew7-659x500.jpg 659w" sizes="(max-width: 1000px) 100vw, 1000px" /></p>
<p>The drinks list is also all locally produced, such as vodka from Blackdown, one of the oldest Sussex distilleries, and gin from <a href="https://sussex.muddystilettos.co.uk/eat-out/slake-sussex-foraged-gin/" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer">Shoreham-based Slakes</a>. As we were both driving Ali and I eschewed the wine list, much to the disappointment of staff who had been excited to talk us through which local wines from South Downs and Sussex vineyards paired best with which dish. Instead Ali sampled the botanical Seedlip alcohol-free gin and pronounced it a winner, and I had coffee and juice, the staples of harassed mothers the county over, only much more luxurious than your usual Costa.</p>
<div id="attachment_47403" style="width: 1010px" class="wp-caption alignnone"><img aria-describedby="caption-attachment-47403" decoding="async" loading="lazy" class="wp-image-47403 size-full" src="https://sussex.muddystilettos.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/sites/11/2020/02/the-curlew8.jpg" alt="chef's table The Curlew Bodiam" width="1000" height="667" srcset="https://dev.muddystilettos.co.uk/sussex/wp-content/uploads/sites/11/2020/02/the-curlew8.jpg 1000w, https://dev.muddystilettos.co.uk/sussex/wp-content/uploads/sites/11/2020/02/the-curlew8-300x200.jpg 300w, https://dev.muddystilettos.co.uk/sussex/wp-content/uploads/sites/11/2020/02/the-curlew8-768x512.jpg 768w, https://dev.muddystilettos.co.uk/sussex/wp-content/uploads/sites/11/2020/02/the-curlew8-720x480.jpg 720w" sizes="(max-width: 1000px) 100vw, 1000px" /><p id="caption-attachment-47403" class="wp-caption-text">Food Story Media</p></div>
<h2>OUT AND ABOUT</h2>
<p>Situated just outside Bodiam, The Curlew is handy for visiting nearby National Trust properties Bodiam Castle or Bateman&#8217;s at Burwash. Hastings and the coast isn&#8217;t far away either, about 25 minutes in the car. Or head the other way across the border into Kent and you&#8217;re not far from Bedgebury forest which is great for families and activities like cycling and Go Ape.</p>
<h2>THE VERDICT</h2>
<h3>GOOD FOR: Social dining really is the buzzword here, everybody is welcome, so great for big multigenerational family events or rowdy groups of friends. I also think it&#8217;s got date night written all over it.</h3>
<h3>NOT FOR: It&#8217;s family friendly but this is still a grown-up restaurant not a country pub, and there isn&#8217;t masses of space for running around or a playground, meaning it&#8217;s not the best choice for little Johnny&#8217;s 7th birthday with 28 of Year 2 in tow.</h3>
<p><em>The Curlew, Junction Road, Bodiam TN32 5UY, 01580 860531</em> <a href="https://www.facebook.com/thecurlewbodiam/" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer">facebook.com/thecurlewbodiam/</a></p>


The Curlew, Bodiam

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