Lindfield’s High Street is as delightful a spot as you could wish for, all timbered dwellings and leafy charm, yet there’s nothing quaint about the food at Orla. In fact, this pint-sized powerhouse of modern-European cuisine could readily hold its own among the most bougee urban bistros.

Its head chef is Ian Brunsdon, a former quarter-finalist of MasterChef The Professionals, and he runs Orla with his wife Ellen. Together, they’ve created a clean, modern interior within an exquisitely restored period building. Choose to sit at the pass, and you’ll have a ringside seat for culinary magic, watching as Ian conjures up a top-tier menu of seasonal fare that celebrates both classic and contemporary dishes, and delights the eye as well as the tastebuds. There’s no hint of pretension either: finesse is paired with friendliness and the hospitality here is genuine and relaxed. You’ll even find a children’s menu on offer at lunchtime.

Dishes change constantly but you can expect to begin with the likes of burrata with Lindfield plums, spiced almonds and a tomato dressing, or ham hock terrine with crispy quails egg and capers. Mains are precise yet hearty, and might include game, fish or a sirloin steak with wild mushroom and Madeira jus. Vegetarians aren’t neglected, either. Desserts are grownup and very hard to refuse. Dark chocolate cremeux with passionfruit and shortbread? Absolutely – and just the one spoon, please!

Not quite ready to go home? Orla also has rooms, and the breakfast alone is worth sticking around for.