Sussex


<h2 class="wp-block-heading"><strong>WHAT? WHERE?</strong></h2>



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<p>Contemporary chic is the order of the day at The Pass &#8211; the new restaurant at the five-star hotel, South Lodge &#8211; that opened in August. The latest baby of head chef Ben Wilkinson whose culinary CV includes Michelin-starred, The Cottage in the Wood, in the Lake District, and everything feels shiny and new. But any sterile feelings are whisked away with the warmth and enthusiasm of Ben’s partner, Monika Zurawska who leads the front of house team.&nbsp;</p>



<p>His seven-course tasting menu utilises quality produce around Sussex including South Downs venison, wild sea trout and oysters, each course perfectly paced. It’s no surprise then that the suggestion is to allow three hours for your meal, Muddy took a good five.</p>



<h2 class="wp-block-heading"><strong>THE VIBE&nbsp;</strong></h2>



<figure class="wp-block-image size-full"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" width="1500" height="1000" src="https://dev.muddystilettos.co.uk/sussex/wp-content/uploads/sites/11/2022/10/2-18.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-61464" srcset="https://dev.muddystilettos.co.uk/sussex/wp-content/uploads/sites/11/2022/10/2-18.jpg 1500w, https://dev.muddystilettos.co.uk/sussex/wp-content/uploads/sites/11/2022/10/2-18-800x533.jpg 800w, https://dev.muddystilettos.co.uk/sussex/wp-content/uploads/sites/11/2022/10/2-18-1000x667.jpg 1000w, https://dev.muddystilettos.co.uk/sussex/wp-content/uploads/sites/11/2022/10/2-18-768x512.jpg 768w, https://dev.muddystilettos.co.uk/sussex/wp-content/uploads/sites/11/2022/10/2-18-788x525.jpg 788w" sizes="(max-width: 1500px) 100vw, 1500px" /></figure>



<p>The newness gives off that squeaky clean feel where you’re worried about putting a smudge on a wine glass, but after a few sips that anxiety melts away. The silver shades and muted mauve help put the focus on the food. There’s minimal fuss, just a wooden table with a small flower and an intimate feel with room for just 28 diners.<br><br>If you’re the first there it can feel a little uncomfortable as the tables sit in parallel along two rows and things could feel a little bland and brasserie like, were it not for the open plan kitchen. This takes up over half of the restaurant and is buzzing with energy. Muddy and their plus one switched places every course so one of us could always enjoy the action.<br><br>Ben makes a concerted effort to speak to each table and introduce at least one of his courses and will happily talk you through things.<br></p>



<h2 class="wp-block-heading"><strong>SCOFF AND QUAFF&nbsp;</strong></h2>



<figure class="wp-block-image size-full"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" width="1500" height="1000" src="https://dev.muddystilettos.co.uk/sussex/wp-content/uploads/sites/11/2022/10/3-8.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-61465" srcset="https://dev.muddystilettos.co.uk/sussex/wp-content/uploads/sites/11/2022/10/3-8.jpg 1500w, https://dev.muddystilettos.co.uk/sussex/wp-content/uploads/sites/11/2022/10/3-8-800x533.jpg 800w, https://dev.muddystilettos.co.uk/sussex/wp-content/uploads/sites/11/2022/10/3-8-1000x667.jpg 1000w, https://dev.muddystilettos.co.uk/sussex/wp-content/uploads/sites/11/2022/10/3-8-768x512.jpg 768w, https://dev.muddystilettos.co.uk/sussex/wp-content/uploads/sites/11/2022/10/3-8-788x525.jpg 788w" sizes="(max-width: 1500px) 100vw, 1500px" /></figure>



<p>The canapés kicked things off with cheese profiteroles, a pork croquette and lobster and pea salad. These had all the crunch you want with the lightness you need. Mouthfuls of magic.&nbsp; The first course was trout with oyster, cucumber and roe, in the thinest of pastry paired with a Riesling it hit all the right notes.</p>



<figure class="wp-block-image size-full"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" width="1500" height="1000" src="https://dev.muddystilettos.co.uk/sussex/wp-content/uploads/sites/11/2022/10/4-7.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-61466" srcset="https://dev.muddystilettos.co.uk/sussex/wp-content/uploads/sites/11/2022/10/4-7.jpg 1500w, https://dev.muddystilettos.co.uk/sussex/wp-content/uploads/sites/11/2022/10/4-7-800x533.jpg 800w, https://dev.muddystilettos.co.uk/sussex/wp-content/uploads/sites/11/2022/10/4-7-1000x667.jpg 1000w, https://dev.muddystilettos.co.uk/sussex/wp-content/uploads/sites/11/2022/10/4-7-768x512.jpg 768w, https://dev.muddystilettos.co.uk/sussex/wp-content/uploads/sites/11/2022/10/4-7-788x525.jpg 788w" sizes="(max-width: 1500px) 100vw, 1500px" /></figure>



<p>Next up was every colour of tomato you can imagine with prawn and nasturtium, again, refreshingly light and elegant which is needed when you’re bracing yourself for a further six courses. </p>



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<p>The first meat course was venison with fennel, caper and pine nuts (delicious) served with the most moorish treacle bread that provided a little weight to a delicate dish.</p>



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<p>This was followed by Newhaven Turbot with turnip, peas, girolle and ossetra and paired with Ridgeview sparkling. The two together became best friends for my foodie night and the lightness of the sauce balanced things out beautifully.</p>



<figure class="wp-block-image size-full"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" width="1500" height="1000" src="https://dev.muddystilettos.co.uk/sussex/wp-content/uploads/sites/11/2022/10/8-2.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-61469" srcset="https://dev.muddystilettos.co.uk/sussex/wp-content/uploads/sites/11/2022/10/8-2.jpg 1500w, https://dev.muddystilettos.co.uk/sussex/wp-content/uploads/sites/11/2022/10/8-2-800x533.jpg 800w, https://dev.muddystilettos.co.uk/sussex/wp-content/uploads/sites/11/2022/10/8-2-1000x667.jpg 1000w, https://dev.muddystilettos.co.uk/sussex/wp-content/uploads/sites/11/2022/10/8-2-768x512.jpg 768w, https://dev.muddystilettos.co.uk/sussex/wp-content/uploads/sites/11/2022/10/8-2-788x525.jpg 788w" sizes="(max-width: 1500px) 100vw, 1500px" /></figure>



<p>Lamb followed with sweetbreads and Jerusalem artichoke, my pescatarian pal had a mushroom and she was grateful of the respite and pause before the next course. I however had wanted her portion because this was simply incredible.</p>



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<p>We requested to have our cheese at the very end and went straight in for dessert the first was a strawberry ewes’ curd with vanilla and elderflower. It was almost too pretty to eat, but Muddy says ‘almost’ because it was a refreshing start to the sweet courses.</p>



<figure class="wp-block-image size-full"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" width="1500" height="1000" src="https://dev.muddystilettos.co.uk/sussex/wp-content/uploads/sites/11/2022/10/10-3.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-61471" srcset="https://dev.muddystilettos.co.uk/sussex/wp-content/uploads/sites/11/2022/10/10-3.jpg 1500w, https://dev.muddystilettos.co.uk/sussex/wp-content/uploads/sites/11/2022/10/10-3-800x533.jpg 800w, https://dev.muddystilettos.co.uk/sussex/wp-content/uploads/sites/11/2022/10/10-3-1000x667.jpg 1000w, https://dev.muddystilettos.co.uk/sussex/wp-content/uploads/sites/11/2022/10/10-3-768x512.jpg 768w, https://dev.muddystilettos.co.uk/sussex/wp-content/uploads/sites/11/2022/10/10-3-788x525.jpg 788w" sizes="(max-width: 1500px) 100vw, 1500px" /></figure>



<p>Then, came the showstopper of hazelnut, coffee, maple and chocolate on a bouncy cake-like base this was incredible.</p>



<figure class="wp-block-image size-full"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" width="1500" height="1000" src="https://dev.muddystilettos.co.uk/sussex/wp-content/uploads/sites/11/2022/10/11-1.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-61472" srcset="https://dev.muddystilettos.co.uk/sussex/wp-content/uploads/sites/11/2022/10/11-1.jpg 1500w, https://dev.muddystilettos.co.uk/sussex/wp-content/uploads/sites/11/2022/10/11-1-800x533.jpg 800w, https://dev.muddystilettos.co.uk/sussex/wp-content/uploads/sites/11/2022/10/11-1-1000x667.jpg 1000w, https://dev.muddystilettos.co.uk/sussex/wp-content/uploads/sites/11/2022/10/11-1-768x512.jpg 768w, https://dev.muddystilettos.co.uk/sussex/wp-content/uploads/sites/11/2022/10/11-1-788x525.jpg 788w" sizes="(max-width: 1500px) 100vw, 1500px" /></figure>



<p>To complete the gourmet night, there were three goats cheese signed off by some petits fours. Yes, we ate them all. Judge away, it was all too good to miss.&nbsp;</p>



<figure class="wp-block-image size-full"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" width="1500" height="1000" src="https://dev.muddystilettos.co.uk/sussex/wp-content/uploads/sites/11/2022/10/13-1.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-61473" srcset="https://dev.muddystilettos.co.uk/sussex/wp-content/uploads/sites/11/2022/10/13-1.jpg 1500w, https://dev.muddystilettos.co.uk/sussex/wp-content/uploads/sites/11/2022/10/13-1-800x533.jpg 800w, https://dev.muddystilettos.co.uk/sussex/wp-content/uploads/sites/11/2022/10/13-1-1000x667.jpg 1000w, https://dev.muddystilettos.co.uk/sussex/wp-content/uploads/sites/11/2022/10/13-1-768x512.jpg 768w, https://dev.muddystilettos.co.uk/sussex/wp-content/uploads/sites/11/2022/10/13-1-788x525.jpg 788w" sizes="(max-width: 1500px) 100vw, 1500px" /></figure>



<h2 class="wp-block-heading"><strong>STAY</strong></h2>



<p>After such an epic extravagant meal, all you’ll be good for is waddling out of the restaurant and ideally back to the South Lodge Hotel’s bar to sit next to the roaring fire, or, to stay in one of their stunning traditional rooms with incredible views. And what’s more you can swim off all the calories the next day at the hotel spa which has two outdoor pools &#8211; a thermal pool and wild pool.&nbsp;</p>



<h2 class="wp-block-heading"><strong>DOG-FRIENDLY</strong></h2>



<p>The restaurant isn’t dog friendly, this is fine dining after all, but the hotel very much is. If you choose to stay you can bring your pooch for a small surcharge. </p>



<h2 class="wp-block-heading"><strong>OUT AND ABOUT</strong></h2>



<figure class="wp-block-image size-full"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" width="1500" height="1000" src="https://dev.muddystilettos.co.uk/sussex/wp-content/uploads/sites/11/2022/10/2-1.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-61141" srcset="https://dev.muddystilettos.co.uk/sussex/wp-content/uploads/sites/11/2022/10/2-1.jpg 1500w, https://dev.muddystilettos.co.uk/sussex/wp-content/uploads/sites/11/2022/10/2-1-800x533.jpg 800w, https://dev.muddystilettos.co.uk/sussex/wp-content/uploads/sites/11/2022/10/2-1-1000x667.jpg 1000w, https://dev.muddystilettos.co.uk/sussex/wp-content/uploads/sites/11/2022/10/2-1-768x512.jpg 768w, https://dev.muddystilettos.co.uk/sussex/wp-content/uploads/sites/11/2022/10/2-1-788x525.jpg 788w" sizes="(max-width: 1500px) 100vw, 1500px" /></figure>



<p>The small grounds make for the perfect wander, but opposite the hotel and within easy walking distance is the Grade I listed <a rel="noreferrer noopener" href="https://www.leonardsleegardens.co.uk/" target="_blank">Leonardslee Lakes and Gardens</a>  (above) &#8211;  that has an art gallery and museum.&nbsp;</p>



<h2 class="wp-block-heading"><strong>THE MUDDY VERDICT</strong></h2>



<p>GOOD FOR: Great for couples, celebrating a special occasion or close friends enjoying an elegant meal. Big groups may feel out of place in the intimate setting.</p>



<p>NOT FOR:&nbsp;Families, this is not for little ones. And vegetarians and vegans will struggle. While the restaurant can accommodate for some small changes the menu is fixed.</p>



<p>THE DAMAGE:&nbsp;Seven courses, £120, wine flight, £85.</p>



<p><em><a href="https://www.exclusive.co.uk/south-lodge/food/the-pass/" target="_blank" rel="noreferrer noopener">The Pass</a> at South Lodge Hotel, Brighton Road, Lower Beeding, Crabtree, Horsham RH13 6PS, </em><a href="https://www.google.com/search?q=south+lodge+hotel&amp;rlz=1C5CHFA_enGB994GB995&amp;oq=south+lodge+hotel&amp;aqs=chrome.0.69i59j0i512l5j69i60l2.1777j0j7&amp;sourceid=chrome&amp;ie=UTF-8#"><em>01403 891711</em></a></p>


Review: The Pass at South Lodge, Horsham

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